Because Cuba has been shut off from capitalist principles for so long, many Cuban individuals & small businesses simply don’t understand how to market themselves & gain exposure. Combine this with the scarcity of internet, and it can become difficult to find good, up-to-date information about what to do and how to get there, especially after you’re already on the road in Cuba.
I traveled Cuba from end to end for 6 weeks, and felt like I accomplished a lot while not “rushing it”. J'ai dépensé 3 weeks in the occidental (west), & 3 weeks in the oriente (east) and I decided to create 1-6 week suggested itineraries based on my travels there. I will recap where I went, why you may want to go there, & include some contact details to improve your experience. Hopefully this will help eliminate some uncertainty & assist you in planning your backpacking trip to Cuba.
This is Part 2 of a 2-part series, and will detail my 4-6 week itineraries for backpacking in Cuba. These itineraries are based on the assumption that you have already spent 3 weeks traveling western Cuba after landing in Havana, & supplement my 1-3 week backpacking in Cuba itineraries.
Things to Note:
– My trip was between March 26–May 8th, 2015 during the dry season. We had great weather the entire time, & travelers should note that weather may be an issue between May–October, which is the rainy season.
– All prices were negotiated, and could be different for you depending on the season & your negotiation skills. Don’t be shy about negotiating – it is expected & welcomed in Cuba.
– I personally vouch for the cleanliness & safety of each casa particular listed, and the friendliness & honesty of each person listed.
– $1 CUC = $1 USD. Casa particular = houses that Cubans rent to foreigners. For a more detailed description, please see Partie 1 of my backpacking in Cuba itineraries.
– It makes more sense geographically to work your way across the island from west to east like I did, but if you have limited time to travel eastern Cuba, direct bus options to Baracoa/Santiago should be explored.
My route (after arriving from Santa Clara) in the east of Cuba – Mi ruta (despúes de llegar de Santa Clara) en el este de Cuba
Backpacking in Cuba – 4 Week Itinerary
Santiago de Cuba
The 2nd largest city in Cuba, and located closer to Jamaica than to Havana, Santiago de Cuba in many ways feels like a different country. The city prides itself on it’s Afro-Caribeño culture, and this unique melting pot has birthed everything from traditional dance son (from which salsa is derived), to Bacardi Rum, to The Revolution itself over the years. It was here that Fidel Castro started the movement that would change the direction of his country, and eventually the world.
In addition to countless revolutionary sites & museums, the UNESCO site San Pedro de La Roca (El Morro) is worth a visit & the surrounding mountains provide endless opportunities for exploration. Ladies – if you want to learn how to salsa, this is the place. Cubain line up to swing girls around the dance floor almost everywhere you go.
El Morro used to defend the Bay of Santiago de Cuba from invaders – El Morro solía defender la Bahía de Santiago de Cuba de invasores
Tip: Don’t let all of those noisy motorbikes on the streets of Santiago get on your nerves. Instead use them to your advantage. It’s common practice to wave down any motorbike as they pass by, & ask for a quick “mototaxi” ride to where you’re going. You can get around anywhere in the city for 10 pesos cubanos (less than $.50), which makes navigating the city surprisingly simple & cheap. Don’t let them charge more, 10 pesos is the price.
You see motorcycles everywhere in Santiago – Ves motocicletas por todos lados en Santiago
Suggested time: 3 days
Go for: Revolution history, Salsa dancing your butt off, African folkloric dance shows
Where I stayed:
Talk to Couchsurfer Lianne “Mama Chicken” Rodríguez & she can arrange cheap accommodation with her friends. Teléfono: (+53) 53146937. Correo (Email): liann76@nauta.cu. CS Profile: https://www.couchsurfing.com/people/liann76
Baracoa
Overlooking Baracoa – En el mirador con la vista hacia Baracoa
Baracoa is the hardest place to get to in Cuba, and for many, the most enchanting. Founded in 1511, Baracoa was the first Spanish settlement in Cuba, & Christopher Colombus described it as, “the most beautiful place in the world.” It was isolated from the rest of Cuba for over 400 years until a highway was finally constructed up & over the mountains in 1965.
Being an outdoor enthusiast, I loved Baracoa as beckoning mountains, dark & white sandy beaches, & rushing rivers all converge in what is truly the most tropical corner of Cuba. It reminded me of Costa Rica, but with the richer culture & timeless charm of Cuba. Baracoa’s culinary scene is every bit as unique as it’s landscape, & the region’s abundance of banana, coconut, & cacao spice up the traditional Cuban diet, creating deliciously infused plates.
The bridge over Río Miel en Baracoa – El puente de Río Miel en Baracoa
Tip: Most climb El Yunque mountain for a rite-of-passage Baracoan adventure, but those looking for a more refreshing day trip should look no further than Boca del Yumurí. Take a boat from the beachside mouth of the river up into a spectacular canyon that looks like a scene out of Jurassic Park. After docking the boat, allow yourself a few hours to hike up the winding river which has more clear, green swimming holes, hanging vines, & exotic birds around every corner.
Adventure awaits up the river in Boca de Yumurí – La aventura te espera en el río de Boca de Yumurí
Suggested time: 3-4 days
Go for: Tropical adventures – hiking, climbing, swimming, caving, etc.
Where I stayed:
Casa Ines María Hernandez Hernan. Direción: Flor Crombe 110 entre Frank País y Marabi. Baracoa, Cuba. Teléfono: (+53) 21645698. Correo (email): yurimafabre@correodecuba.cu. What I paid: $16/night/room (up to 4 people) breakfast included.
Backpacking in Cuba – 5 Week Itinerary
Spend more time in previously mentioned places, and add in…
La Boca, Santa Lucía
About 2 hours to the northeast of the city of Camagüey, near Playa Santa Lucía, is a little fishing town called La Boca. Most people don’t go to La Boca, but when they do, they go for solitude & relaxation. There are probably 50 people in the whole town, with only 3 casa particulares, 2 restaurantes, & 1 playa bonita. Playa Coco is small & gorgeous, & sometimes it feels like you have the whole thing to yourself. I was just about the only foreigner when I was there, and by the time I left I had met virtually the entire, friendly town.
Stressed out? Go hang out in a hammock for a while on Playa Coco – Estresado? Date un tiempo para relajarte en una hamaca en Playa Coco
Tip: Go find Tómas, who lives in the little wooden shack next to Hostal Coco Beach. He is a phenomenal cook, & if you stay in town for a few days & promise to eat at his house everyday, you can negotiate to eat delicious seafood for dirt cheap How cheap you say? I ate lobster, octopus, & conch for $4/plate.
My $4, beach front octopus platter – Comiendo un plato de polpo que costó $4 frente a la playa
Défi espagnol!: Seek out Alexander & Daylenis’ famille, who live on the point facing Playa Coco. Alexander & his little brother go spear fishing everyday, and they will probably take you for free just like they did me. Just tell them, “Hola, soy el amigo de Ford, el gringo que se quedó en su hamaca. Él fue a pescar con ustedes, y me preguntaba si puedo ir también. Les invito a tomar unas cervezas.” There you should be set, but know that you just bought them some beers in exchange for a fun-filled day spearfishing at a sunken ship wreck site. Small price to pay, droit? Their cell # is 53272895 & house # 52267054.
Suggested time: 2-3 days, or as long as you don’t want to be found
Go for: Beautiful, secluded beaches, great seafood, & feeling like you’re truly off the map
Where I stayed:
In my hammock between 2 palm trees actually – you should too, or you can stay at Hostal Coco Beach. Santa Lucía, Camagüey, Cuba. Teléfono: 5248-9359. www.hostalcocobeach.com.
Guardalavaca
Guardalavaca has, put simply, some of the most stunning beaches in Cuba & all of the Caribbean. There are plenty of spectacular beaches in Cuba, but most of them are owned by huge resorts (aka the government) & don’t allow the general public to access them. The cool thing about Guardalavaca, pour moi, is there are no laws prohibiting people from accessing the beach. This means that you have a cool mix of Cuban families & foreign tourists interacting with each other, & creates a more humble atmosphere. The resorts here are cheap, but there are also plenty of casa particulares around.
Your dinner view from Miremar restaurant – La vista desde el restaurante Miremar
Tip: head to the far end of the beach and you’ll find a pathway climbing up the rocks. Continue to follow this pathway past the first restaurant, until you reach the top of the hill & find another restaurant called ‘Miremar.” Cela place a la meilleure vue sur Guardalavaca, & savoureux plats de fruits de mer à partir de $6-8, plus les propriétaires sont des amis instantanées.
Suggested time: 2-3 days
Go for: sable blanc & eau bleue turquoise
Where I stayed:
Dans mon hamac sur la plage à nouveau, mais vous pouvez rester avec Señora Marlay Ricardo Perez. Dirección (address): bâtiment 7, appartement 9. 1la Planta, Face à Avenida. Guardalavaca, Cuba. Teléfono: 52976534
L'endroit idéal pour accrocher le hamac – L'endroit idéal pour accrocher votre hamac
Backpacking in Cuba – 6 Week Itinerary
Spend more time in previously mentioned places, and add in…
Camagüey
Les rues labyrinthiques de Camagüey – rues compliquées de Camagüey
Camagüey est une ville intéressante au milieu de Cuba qui a été construit comme un labyrinthe géant afin de confondre les pirates pendant les invasions potentielles de la ville. Il se sent comme vous êtes dans une sorte de niveau de jeu vidéo quand vous marchez autour de la ville, et il y a beaucoup de parcs & musées sympas à canard sur le soleil des Caraïbes de temps en temps.
Avoir une conversation avec les statues de Camagüey – Converser avec des statues de Camagüey
Tip & défi espagnol: CouchSurfer contacts Jorge Diaz. Il parle un peu anglais, mais vous serez forcé de pratiquer un peu d'espagnol comme il vous montre autour de la ville. Il organisera également des logements bon marché grâce à ses amis. (+53)54044387 Email: jedpacheco@gmail.com CS Profil: https://www.couchsurfing.com/people/jedpacheco
Suggested time: 1-2 days
Go for: plan de la ville unique & architecture.
Where I stayed:
Particular Casa Aleida Rios. 580 San Martin, Camagüey, Cuba. Teléfono: +53 32 240612. What I paid: $20/night/room (up to 4 people)
Gibara
Gibara est un village de pêcheurs cru situé sur la côte, à environ 45 minutes au nord de Holguin. La plupart des touristes se dirigent vers les plages de la célèbre station balnéaire de Guardalavaca, et quelques-uns ici venture. Gibara a des carrés bien conservés, jolies plages à proximité, des grottes à explorer, & ruines du fort espagnol. Mais ce que je trouve être le plus unique était cadre géographique de Gibara – une ville en bord de mer qui est entouré par des montagnes aux formes étranges. De plus, chaque année Gibara définit la scène pour la Festival International du Cinéma Pauvre (festival du film à petit budget). Les gens viennent de partout dans le monde à ce festival du film indépendant de se livrer à des projections de films, fêtes de rue, spectacles de comédie & street food.
Gibara est entouré de montagnes en forme de weirdly – Gibara est entouré par des montagnes de différentes façons
Tip: contacter Judy & juillet, un couple charmant qui vendent de l'artisanat à Guardalavaca, mais vivent dans Gibara. Non seulement ils vous montrer tous les meilleurs endroits autour de la ville, ils se plieront en quatre avec leur hospitalité pour vous faire sentir à la maison & confortable. Ils vous aideront à trouver un logement avec des amis en ville. Leurs cellules # 's sont 58606411 52468938 & email est yudiamor@nauta.cu.
Suggested time: 1-2 days
Go for: Descendre la route touristique, un festival de film unique, paysage magnifique
Where I stayed: Voir ci-dessus la pointe
Et ce fut à peu près ma route!
Il y a beaucoup d'endroits que je ne suis pas allé dans la oriente (east) of Cuba, mais je suis content de la 3 semaines que j'y ai passées. Si j'avais plus de temps que je l'aurais aimé aller à des endroits Jardines de la Reina pour la plongée, ou la Sierra Maestra montagnes à grimper Pico Turquino ou voir plaque de commande, Fidel Castro caché, base de montagne où il a son siège social de la Révolution. Je dois juste plus d'une raison de revenir!
Global, Je dirais que la oriente de Cuba est radicalement différente de la occidental (east). Les deux valent un coup d'oeil solide, et moi recommande de prendre 2 voyages distincts à Cuba pour permettre le temps d'explorer à fond à la fois, ou de passer au moins 6 semaines à Cuba pour se rendre toute l'île. Quoi que vous fassiez, NE PAS essayer de couvrir l'ensemble de l'île 3 weeks.
Are You Ready to Go Backpacking in Cuba?!?
If you’ve already been to Cuba, do you agree with my suggestions? Which parts of Cuba do you recommend for 4-6 week itineraries? I’m curious to hear about any cool places that I may have missed!
For those traveling a shorter amount of time, please check out Partie 1 which covers 1-3 week itineraries on backpacking in Cuba & focuses on the western part of the island.
Your descriptions and information is so thorough and detailed. Very helpful. Thank you. DId I miss where you are from. I am wondering the best route to take from Chicago,,,,Is it best to go from Mexico???
Any suggestions?
Thanks for reading my blog Susan! I am from Georgia, but my parents met in Chicago so that city will always have a place in my heart. I would recommend flying to Mexico first, yes. If you look at the airline Interjet, they have very economical flights from Mexico to Cuba (I believe I bought my roundtrip from Mexico City to Havana for $200). Neither the Mexican nor the Cuban customs care anything about Americans coming to Cuba, so you’ll be alright! Just make sure you ask the Cuban customs to stamp your tourist VISA paper instead of your passport. Let me know if you have any questions and enjoy Cuba!
Can you give a rough estimate for budget for your 6 week trip? Not counting the flights, of course. Merci!
Hey Gau. I’m glad you asked. I spent about $1,500 USD in 6 weeks – SUPER cheap. That’s because I weaseled my way into cheap situations with my Spanish and dirtbagging lifestyle (aka I slept in my hammock on the beaches, and under a few roofs illegally). I also ate wayyyy too many peso pizzas and took loads of local transport (camiones, gua-guas, etc.). The key is to get Cuban pesos and use them as many ways as possible. I’ll be posting a “How to Travel Cuba Cheaply” post here in the next few weeks so I hope you’ll check back for some tips and tricks and how to make it work for a shoestringer’s budget! À votre santé!
Hi Ford, I’ve just been reading with interest your article on East Cuba, we,that is Eden,my wife and I are flying into Holguin in early March for three weeks,not backpacking as such but travelling quite lightly, we have already booked into a casa for our first two nights in Gibara. La Boca in one direction and Baracoa in the other both look interesting for the next part. Any information you can give would be appreciated,such as travel between Holguin and Baracoa,bus/taxi/how long etc,and Holguin to La Boca. Hope to hear from you,regards,David
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